El Jem Amphitheater | Incredible Roman History In Tunisia

Did you know the world’s 3rd largest and best-preserved Roman amphitheater is in Africa? Back in the 2nd century, when the El Jem amphitheater was built, its city, Thysdrus, was the second most significant Roman city in Africa. It was a wealthy, agricultural city, with lavish villas and this grand amphitheater. El Jem amphitheater, also called El Djem, is so large, it’s visible for miles, dwarfing the buildings clustered around it. And, since few people visit, this well-preserved UNESCO Heritage Site can be explored without all the frustration of buisier tourist sites.

El Jem Amphitheater

As you approach the El Jem amphitheater, you are immediately impressed by its size. It has three arcade levels and is over 480’ wide. More than two standard NFL football fields fit inside. It towers over the small buildings around it, making it appear even larger.

Built in the late 2nd century, El Jem held 30,000 spectators. The Colosseum of Rome, which (of course) is the world’s largest amphitheater, was built in the 1st century and held about 50,000. If you’re curious which is the world’s second largest Roman amphitheater, it’s the amphitheater in Capua (in southern Italy).

As you enter El Jem, you walk through the massive, vaulted corridors. You can roam freely, with the option to go up the stairs to the upper section of the amphitheater in various places.

You can also visit the underground section of the amphitheater. This is where the gladiators and animals were kept before events, and prisoners before their execution.

In the center of the arena, there is a metal grate that covers the underground area. This was once a moveable wooden floor. It covered the basement cells and was raised when the arena was not in use to provide ventilation and light. There was also once a lift system to bring the caged animals up to the floor of the arena.

There is a local legend that there was once an underground tunnel here that linked the amphitheater with the coastal town of Salakta (21 miles, or 35 km away). This allowed animals and supplies to be delivered directly from the sea. There is also a legend that there were private entrances for dignitaries and special guests arriving from the coast.

I’ve visited both the Colosseum in Rome and the El Jem amphitheater. While the Colosseum really is amazing, and much more imposing, visiting can be frustrating with the long lines and throngs of visitors. Visiting the El Jem amphitheater is such a pleasure as there are no lines, no extra fees, and less people. I definitely recommend making the drive if you are in Tunisia. Not only for the amphitheater, but also for the museum here (more on that below).

The City of Thysdrus

When El Jem was at its peak, the city was called Thysdrus. Thysdrus was a wealthy Roman city, second in importance to Carthage. This was an olive-growing region and a global hub for olive trade, also known as “liquid gold”.

Because of this trade, and the resulting wealth, there were luxurious villas here. They were decorated with some of the finest mosaics in the Roman world. Some of the well-known houses include the Sollertiana house, Peacock house, Dauphin house, the house of Africa, as well as the house of the Dionysiac procession.

El Jem Archeological Museum

Many of these incredible mosaics are in the El Jem Archeological Museum. It’s around the corner from the amphitheater, about a 5-minute walk. Entrance is free with your El Jem amphitheater ticket.

The museum is near the ruins of villas from Thysdrus, so you walk past them on the way in and out of the museum.

Also, the layout of the museum echos the layout of the ancient villas here, designed with a central courtyard surrounded by multiple rooms. These details really enhance the experience of the museum.

The mosaics here are exquisite, some of the best in the world.

How To Get To El Jem Amphitheater

The El Jem amphitheater is located about a 2-hour drive south of Tunis and less than an hour from Sousse (near the coast). You can visit via car, train, or tour.

For the train, take it from Tunis Villa, in the city center, to El Jem Station. The journey takes about three hours. El Jem is just a short, 5-minute walk from the station. From Sousse the train journey is about an hour.

The cost for the El Jem amphitheater is 12-15 TND ($4-5 USD) and includes the El Jem Museum.

If you prefer to take a tour, most from Tunis are combined tours, like this one: Kairouan & El Jem with Optional Monastir Private Day Tour. From Sousse, there are more options, like this tour: Half-Day Excursion from Sousse to El Jem.

I met a Tunisian at Carthage that offered to take me here (for a fee of course), as well as a few other cities nearby. It adds so much more to the journey if you can experience it with locals, and I prefer it when my dollars go to locals rather than large corporations.

Want To See More Of Tunisia?

Tunisia is a fascinating place to visit, with a rich cultural history, many archaeological ruins, multiple UNESCO World Heritage Sites, sunny beaches, and a laid-back atmosphere. Here are some of my favorite places in Tunisia.

• Top Things To Do In Tunis | Ancient Ruins & Hidden Gems
• Timeless Treasures | Discovering the Ruins of Carthage
• What To Do In Sidi Bou Said | Tips for First Time Travelers

Safe Travels!

Julie