Hiking Trolltunga | Conquering Norway’s Iconic Cliff

With the stunning view at the summit of Trolltunga, it has become one of the most coveted hikes in Norway. It gets its name, Trolltunga, or “Troll’s Tongue”, because of the unique tongue-like rock jutting out at its peak, 2,300’ (700 m) over Ringedalsvatnet Lake. Despite being rated as a challenging hike, taking 7-10 plus hours to complete, it has surged in popularity in recent years. It is an adventure and as much about the journey as the destination. You will see the stunning Norwegian landscape unfold as you hike the high mountain terrain, walking on various sized rocks and boulders, past lakes and over streams and marshes with views of the glaciers that formed this area thousands of years ago in the distance. You will meet hikers from around the world and your physical limits will definitely be tested. Despite its challenges, the thrill of conquering this majestic landmark is incredibly rewarding. In this post, I’ll share my experience hiking Trolltunga, along with essential tips and insights.

Hiking Trolltunga

Hiking Trolltunga: The Start

There are two main places to start when hiking Trolltunga. The ideal starting point is at Mågelitopp, better known as the P3 parking area. From here the trail is at its shortest: 12.4 miles (20 km) with 2,624’ (800 m) of total ascent.

The trail from Skjeggedal, or the P2 parking area, is 16.7 miles (27 km) with 3,937’ (1,200 m) of total ascent. A substantial difference. Also, the trail from P2 to P3 is a narrow, heavily-switchbacked, paved road, with minimal scenery. For the details on how to get to P2 and coveted P3, where there is very limited parking (only 30 spaces), see below.

Trolltunga’s challenge is due more to its length than to its elevation gain, yet both are demanding. Because of the trail’s length, it’s best to start early. The hike takes about 7-10 hours from P3 and 8-12 hours from P2. Otherwise you will end up hiking down in the dark. This is not ideal. Especially if you are tired (which you probably will be).

Also, if it’s summer, temperatures will be cooler in the morning. There will also be fewer hikers on the trail, and, you will be more likely to get a parking space at P2, which is first come first serve.

Depending on the weather, it also is more beautiful in the early morning. I started from P3 at 7 AM and the heavy morning mist, rising along with the sun, gave the terrain a magical air.

Hiking Trolltunga: The Trail

Similar to my hike at Pulpit Rock, Trolltunga was crowded at the beginning of the trail. Especially as a group of us started hiking at the same time (from the first shuttles to P3). About a half an hour into my hike, the crowd thinned out as many people stopped to rest at various points.

Whether you start from P2 or P3, the first part of the trail is the steepest. After you reach Trombeskar (see chart below), the trail levels out a bit, undulating up and down, on the rocky terrain.

Not long after this, you will see your first glimpse of Ringedalsvatnet Lake, which you will see again in all its glory at the summit. Because of the beauty of the area here, it is a perfect spot for a snack break.

The trail is well marked with tall metal poles, about 8-10’ tall, so even if you end up hiking solo, it’s easy to stay on the trail.

Hiking Trolltunga: The Summit

At a little after 10 AM, I reached the summit. I could tell I was getting close to the summit as the air became silent and crisp. I think this is because I was no longer in the valley, where the sounds were more muffled.

When I reached the summit, I spent some time looking at the scenery in awe. The view of Trolltunga, Ringedalsvatnet Lake, and the mountains beyond, really is spectacular. 100% worth the effort!

Soon, as you start to look around, you will see the line to have your photo taken on Trolltunga. Since I arrived fairly early, there were only about half a dozen people waiting in line. My wait was only about 5-10 minutes. If you arrive mid afternoon, it can be much, much longer.

Hiking Trolltunga: The Hike Down

When I had my fill of the scenery and people watching at the summit, I started the journey back downhill. My hike up took me about three hours, and the hike down took me about the same amount of time. Normally, I’m faster going downhill, but this is where the trail became grueling for me. Especially towards the 6th and 7th hour, when I was at the steepest descent.

I definitely I stopped to rest more often on the hike downhill than I did going uphill. When you hike, make sure to save plenty of snacks to keep your energy levels up for the hike down.

Food & Snacks

There is no food available on the trail. Unless you have a cooler, you will need food that can last for several hours without refrigeration. I prefer protein when I hike, so I bought some reindeer salami, cheese, and bread, for a sandwich, along with chips, nuts, and chocolate.

The reindeer salami can be found in most grocery stores in Norway, along with whale, deer, and elk salami. They are sold in small salami-shaped packages or sliced up in plastic trays. I found it at the Rema 1000 in Odda the day I arrived. It was in a cardboard display near the bread aisle as it does not need to be refrigerated until after the package is opened. See vikingsnacks.no for more details on the salami.

For the cheese, I bought a small bag of Babybel cheese, which have little mini packaged rounds of cheese in a wax casing. This casing protects the cheese for a few hours outside of the refrigerator. Norway also has an Old Cheese (Gamalost) and Brown Cheese (Brunost), that can be kept out of the refrigerator for a few hours. Both are good, but, unfortunately, I only saw them in large packages.

Bring plenty of water, preferably with electrolytes. I found powdered electrolyte mix in the small sports store at P2 and added it to the water bladder in my backpack. This really helps with energy levels.

They also say that you can drink the water from springs near the peak. If you do, make sure your water source is above the trail and above any people camping along the trail.

Expect to have lunch on the trail and snacks every hour or two for energy. Start with your protein snacks, like nuts, cheese, and meat, saving most of the carbs and sweets until later in the hike. This way you’re less likely to suffer from a sugar crash in the middle of the hike.

Also, just so you know, there are no restroom facilities after P2. You must carry in everything you need and carry all your trash back out (including toilet paper).

How to Get To Trolltunga

There are several options for getting to, and parking, at Trolltunga.

Mågelitopp, or P3

As noted above, P3 is the ideal starting point. The challenge with this is that there are only 30 parking spaces for the approximately 1,000-1,500 daily hikers, and they must be reserved in advance. Note that you also can’t drive up to P3 to drop people off. This means that unless you are one of the lucky few to reserve parking at P3, you need to start your hike from P2 or take the shuttle bus. P3 parking can be booked at trolltunganorway.com.

The shuttle bus from P2 to P3, which most hikers take, is best reserved in advance at trolltunganorway.com. Especially if you want to be in one of the first shuttle vans that start at 6:30. They say you can buy tickets on the day of your hike at P2, but I would book in advance to make sure you get the time slot you want.

There are multiple shuttles. They are small to navigate the narrow, winding road, so if you want to be in one of the first shuttles, get in line well before 6:30. Even arriving before 6:30 for my shuttle, I didn’t reach P3 until 7 AM.

Note that you can also get a shuttle ride from P3 back to P2 after your hike. Just queue for the shuttle at P3 after your hike and pay when you arrive at P2.

Skjeggedal, or P2

If you plan to self-drive to P2, it’s important to know that not all vehicles can navigate the narrow, winding road. Use regular passenger vehicles and SUVs less than 5.2 m in length. The road is too narrow for buses, camper vans, and mini vans. It is so narrow, two cars can’t pass. You must wait at a widened area of the road for oncoming traffic to pass before you continue.

If your vehicle is too large, you need to park at P1, or Tyssedal, near the base of the mountain, and take a different shuttle (see below).

There are 229 parking spaces at P2. Parking here is first come first serve. No pre-booking. The fee to park here is slightly higher than at P1 as money goes towards maintenance of the road and facilities here.

Tyssedale, or P1

There are 227 parking spaces at P1, or Tyssedal. This parking area is also first come first serve. No pre-booking. Park here if your vehicle is too large or P2 is full.

There is a shuttle bus from P1 to P2. As with the shuttle from P2 to P3, it is best to book this in advance. Note that this shuttle actually starts at Odda and makes a stop at Tyssedal before heading up to P2. It is different than the shuttle from P2 to P3. Book this shuttle at trolltunganorway.com. Make sure to also book your return ticket.

Note that you can hike Trolltunga from P1, but from here, the trail is over 23 miles (38 km) round trip with 6,561’ (2,000 m) of total ascent.

Odda

If you are staying in Odda, the closest town to Trolltunga, there is also a shuttle bus from Odda to Tyssedale. This is the same shuttle as the one above, in P1. It starts in Odda, then stops in Tyssedal before heading up to P2. Make sure to also book your return ticket.

Odda is about a 3 hour drive southeast of Bergen or about a 3.5 hour drive north of Stavanger. There is some epic scenery along the way, so add in extra time to stop for a few photos. From Odda to Skjeggedal, or P2, it is another 20-30 minutes due to the narrow winding road.

What To Wear

Because the hike is so long, and because the weather can change very quickly, it’s best to dress in, or bring multiple layers. At the steepest part of the ascent, when you’re burning the most energy, you may want just shorts and a short sleeve top to stay cool.

Bring long pants and a long shirt to put over this for early mornings, cool, windy conditions, and higher elevations. Also a packable puffer is great for the cool weather and near the summit. On top of this, always bring a waterproof/windproof layer (top and bottom) that you can add on in case of rain.

Of course, hiking boots are best for the uneven, rocky terrain. Poles are also helpful for the hike down. Especially if you have bad knees.

If necessary, you can rent, or buy, equipment at the small athletic store at P2. There is also a nice athletic outlet store above the Rema 1000 grocery store in Odda that has a much larger offering.

Where To Stay

If you are staying a few days for your hiking trip at Trolltunga and want access to restaurants and shops, it’s best to stay in the small, charming town of Odda. There are several places that have good reviews. Some include views of the waterfront.

The downside of staying is Odda, is navigating to the trailhead in the morning of your hike and back at the end of the day. It adds time to an already long day.

For easier access to the trail, look for Airbnbs at, or near P2. I stayed at a cabin at P2. Space to park beside the cabin was included in the price. This was super convenient as it was a short walk to the shuttles for P3 the morning of my hike. It was also owned by a local. I always try to stay in establishments owned by locals to travel sustainably (rather than having my dollars go to large corporations).

The downside to staying at P2, is that it is in the middle of nowhere, at the base of the trail, with miminal food options. There is a small wooden hut that serves hot dogs, pizza, french fries, and packaged ice cream, and a small athletic store that sells water and other beverages. That is it.

Since driving the winding road is time consuming and tiring, make sure you stop at the Rema 1000 in Odda for groceries before heading up the mountain. I can promise you, you will not want to head down to Odda for food after hiking Trolltunga.

Want To See More of Norway?

Here are some of my other favorite places in Norway.

• Things To Do In Lofoten | Norway’s Breathtaking Archipelago
• Pulpit Rock Hike on Spectacular Preikestolen | Your Complete Guide
• Top 10 Things To Do In Stavanger | Unforgettable Adventures
• Hiking Reinebringen | Spectacular Summit Above The Fjords
• The Audacious Beauty Of Odda | Waterfalls, Glaciers, & Trails
• Best of Bergen | Gems, Highlights, & Day Trips
• What To Do Around Flam | Scenic Wonders & Little Known Adventures
• Norway In A Nutshell Review | Is It Worth It?
• What To Do In Oslo | Nature Escapes, Rich Heritage, and Modern Landmarks
• Norway Itinerary | 2 Weeks of Wonders & 3 Epic Hikes
• Norway Travel Guide

Safe Travels!

Julie