Visiting Stari Most | The Beautiful Old Bridge in Mostar

Mostar, a small war-torn, but charming town in Bosnia and Herzegovina (BIH), named after the mostari, or bridge keepers of beautiful Stari Most Bridge, which literally means old bridge, is definitely worth a visit. Although still partly in shambles from the Croat-Bosniak war and an 18-month siege in the mid-90’s, it’s a beautiful and heart-warming place (albeit slightly heart-breaking too) with friendly locals and delicious food.

Along with seeing the old bridge, Stari Most, one of the city’s key attractions, and hopefully some of its daring bridge jumpers, you can explore both the Croat and Bosniak sides of the bridge, visiting shops and restaurants, and meeting the people that live here.

There are also several museums explaining the history and explosive war here, a chilling old bank-turned sniper tower that’s now a poignant reminder, a 17th century Mosque with great views of the river and bridge, Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque, a monument dedicated to anti-fascism, and graffiti sprinkled throughout, providing a space for people to voice deep rooted beliefs (like below).

If you do visit, try to stay for at least one night so you can also experience the amazing traditional Bosnian breakfasts and coffee here. Visiting Mostar as a day trip just really doesn’t provide the same essence as staying here for at least one night.

Historic Mostar

The historic town of Mostar, which sits in a valley spanning the Neretva River, was developed as an Ottoman frontier town in the 15th and 16th centuries and again later during the Austro-Hungarian period in the 19th and 20th centuries.

For centuries, the people of this ethnically diverse town lived together harmoniously, until Yugoslavia collapsed and a violent civil war erupted, with almost 75% of the city destroyed.

Since the war, the city has remained ethnically divided, with the Neretva River, which runs right through town (and under Stari Most bridge), acting as an ethnic dividing line. Muslim Bosniaks live on one side and Catholic Croats on the other. Both with lovely, resilient people.

Stari Most, The Old Bridge In Mostar

The star of Mostar is Stari Most Bridge, or the Old Bridge in Mostar.

Bridge Jumping Off Stari Most

In Mostar Bridge jumping off the old bridge, Stari Most, first documented in 1664, is one of Mostar’s main attractions. It’s such an important tradition here, the dive club here has an official registrar of every jump.

Tourist Bridge Jumping

Jumping off Stari Most is dangerous, and, although some people have been seriously injured (some have even died!), tourists can take the daring leap too. To do so, you need to officially register with the dive club. They charge a relatively small fee and provide lessons and tips (so hopefully you don’t break anything…or worse).

After the jump, you’ll be noted in the registrar and get an official diving certificate (and lots of bragging rights) for joining the 24-meter club.

Professional Bridge Jumping

Professional jumping and diving competitions are also held here. Red Bull started championship competitions in 2090, with Stari Most being one of their venues. Their most recent competition was in 2019. To learn more, read about it redbull.com, or in the Sarajevo Times.

Best Views of Stari Most

Stari Most bridge is so pretty, you’ll find yourself walking around trying to see it from different angles. My favorite view was from Lucki Most bridge, the next bridge south of Stari Most, as it also shows the town and mountains in the distance. It’s best in afternoon light, and even more enchanting in the evening as the city lights turn on.

Another photo spot is on the diving platform where young men practice below the bridge, on the Bosniak side (below). As well as on the river bank, on the Croat side of the bridge.

There’s also a photo-worthy view from Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque (which charges a small fee for a visit and bridge viewing). I visited in the afternoon, but the light was not ideal that time of day, so, sorry, no photo.

Hotels and Airbnb’s also boast great views. One of the rooms where I stayed had a magnificent view, but the room was occupied.

Other Things To See in Mostar Old Town

Kriva Cuprija

Kriva Cuprija (crooked bridge), which looks like a mini version of Stari Most, is a 2-minute walk west of the old bridge. As it was built before Stari Most, some think it was a trial for the design and construction of Stari Most.

This smaller bridge was destroyed by floods several years ago and has also been rebuilt.

Top Museums

There are also several museums in Mostar, all within walking distance of the bridge.

Stari Most Museum: This museum focuses on Stari Most bridge, with historical information and stories on its destruction and rebuilding. 

Museum of War and Genocide: Provides an overview of the historical tensions and the atrocities of the war here.

War Photo Exhibition: A museum featuring photojournalism from the war.

Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque

You can also visit 17th century Koski Mehmed Pasa Mosque (on the Bosnian side), which has beautiful views of the river and Stari Most. It’s also a lovely Mosque. And, as a Mosque, you need to cover arms and legs. Skirts and shawls are available if you need them.

Things To See in Mostar Outside The Old City

Mostar Sniper Tower

Before the Bosnian war, this tower was Ljubljanska Bank. Strategically located on the main street in the center of Mostar, the bank was destroyed and the upper floors used as a sniper tower to control the city. Yikes! Horrifying, right?

Anti-Fascism Monument

Not far from Mostar’s old sniper tower, there’s a monument dedicated to anti-fascism. I could not find much information on it, but think it commemorates the Yugoslav Partisan forces’ victory over fascism in WWII.

How To Get To Mostar

Fly

The closest international airport to Mostar is Mostar International airport (OMO). It’s located in Ortijes, which is about 4-5 miles (7.5 km) from the Old Bridge. The airport in Sarajevo (SJJ) is about 70 miles (114 km) away.

To get to the town of Mostar from the airport, it’s easiest to take a taxi. Currently, Uber and Lyft are not in Bosnia, so a standard taxi will be required. Although taxi drivers are required by law to use the meter, they often do not. Make sure they turn in the meter before you get in the car. They only accept cash. Since the distance is short, the ride will be inexpensive.

To Mostar From Sarajevo

The cheapest and fastest way to get to Mostar from Sarajevo is to take the train, which takes about 1 hour. The second best option is to take the bus, which is a little more expensive and takes about 2.5 hours.

To Mostar From Dubrovnik 

If you’re visiting from Croatia, Mostar is about 92 miles (148.5 km) northwest of Dubrovnik. The bus is the best form of transportation, taking about 4.5 hours.

When Is the Best Time To Visit Mostar?

The best time to visit is Spring, May and June, and Fall, in September, to avoid the mid-summer heat.

Is Mostar Safe?

Yes, Mostar is safe and the locals are friendly to tourists. Do be extra cautious, however, around abandoned buildings and if trekking off main trails. It’s possible old, unexploded land mines may still exist.

Thoughts On Mostar

Although seeing all the damage from the war can be tough, I still think Mostar is a worthwhile stop, especially if visiting nearby Croatia or Montenegro.

Not only is it beautiful and charming, but the people here, who have been through so much, really touch your heart. It’s a place you’ll never forget. And hopefully, you’ll get a chance to watch the bridge jumpers when you visit. Or join the 24-meter club yourself.

Want To a see More Of Bosnia And Herzegovina?

After visiting Mostar, visit Sarajevo, to see the country’s capital and learn more about Bosnia and Herzegovina’s history. Another fascinating place, although also sad, and where opposing sides still live side by side.