Art of The West Bank Wall, Palestine

Did you know that you can visit the West Bank Wall to see the art and the sites in Palestine solo? Many people are shocked when I tell them that I did, but when I was visiting Israel, I wanted to get the full experience of the area, so took the local bus from Jerusalem to Palestine. I was curious to see the area with my own eyes, see the art by Banksy and other graffiti artists created on the wall of the West Bank and surrounding area, reflecting their artistic expression about the situation here. While here, I also visited the religious sites in Bethlehem.

I really didn’t know what to expect, but that’s the point of traveling, right? At least it is for for me. And based on the fact that I only saw 2 or 3 other independent tourists here, a big contrast to the large number of tourists in Jerusalem (just a few minutes away), others are a little uncertain about visiting too.

But it’s a shame. Little about this area reaches us beyond the news snippets we get about terrorism and strife, yet the people I met here are lovely. It really is a place you need to visit before you develop any opinions on what it’s like here from the news. I felt completely safe here, other than the possibility of random acts of violence between the two sides. A risk you need to consider for yourself if visiting.

This post covers how to visit Palestine to see the art on the West Bank wall.

Important: Timing, of course, need to be considered when and if planning a trip. There are times when tensions rise here and that would not be a good time to visit…like right now. It’s best to check government travel advisories prior to your visit and continue checking when you do travel. Currently, neither Israel nor the West Bank are safe for travel.

West Bank Wall, And Street Art In Bethlehem, Palestine

The West Bank Wall and other walls in the area have been a stage for artistic expression for many years, with Banksy creating his first artwork here in 2005. Today, both famous and local Palestinian artists paint here, trying to bring attention to the situation in a peaceful way. 

The entire West Bank Wall is 440 miles long (708 km) ranging from 9.8’ (3 m) to 26’ (8 m) high. It goes as far as Jenin in the north to Hebron in the south. The section near Bethlehem, the section covered by this post, is just a few miles southeast of Jerusalem. Most of the art is easy to find, located between Checkpoint 300 and Banksy’s hotel (more on that below).

Banksy

Banksy first arrived in the mid-2000s (if you don’t know who Banksy is, read about him here). I read that at first, he just thought the West Bank Wall would be a good wall to paint art on, but found himself so moved by what was happening here, he came back several times. In 2017, he even opened a hotel here, called the Walled Off Hotel (a clever play off the elegant Waldorf Hotel). It sits a few meters from the wall, claiming to have ‘the worst view in the world’.

The hotel is controversial amongst some, claiming Banksy is profiting off a bad situation. But I’ve read the goal of the hotel is to break even with profits going towards assisting locals. He also hires local Palestinians, promotes local artists in a gallery in his hotel, and has a small museum providing an overview of the history of the wall.

Even if you do not stay at his hotel, I recommend visiting to see the museum and art gallery there.

Banksy’s work portrays powerful messages of freedom, injustice, and peace, with the most popular noted below.

Dove in The Crosshairs

This artwork was created in 2003 on the Palestinian Heritage Center. The dove, with its olive branch, is a symbol of peace. The art, with the dove’s chest in the crosshairs of a weapon, is powerful, highlighting the vulnerability of the Palestinians.

To find this artwork in maps.me, type ”Armored Dove by Banksy” in the search bar in the map of the Palestinian Territories.

Rage The Flower Thrower

One of Banksy’s more iconic pieces is Rage The Flower Thrower. This art is located on the wall of a gas station, in front of the West Bank Wall, not far from Banksy’s hotel.

It shows a masked Palestinian with the body language and facial expression of anger and violence getting ready to throw a bouquet of colorful flowers. This work is also the image used for the cover of Banksy’s 2005 book “Wall and Piece”.

Stop And Search

Banksy’s Stop and Search artwork, pokes fun at the stop and frisk policy.

In his art, he shows an officer searching Dorothy’s basket from the Wizard of Oz, someone perceived of as very innocent, while her dog Toto looks on.

Even the tiny artwork to the left of this piece references the same tone. Here a police officer checks the ID of a donkey.

Make Hummus, Not Walls

Banksy’s painted this more lighthearted image in 2007. I love that someone added the table and chairs here. This is located across the street from the Flower Thrower art above.

To find this artwork in maps.me, type “Make Hummus Not Walls” into the search bar in the map of the Palestinian Territories.

Soldier Perquisiton

Here, Banksy manages to portray children , or innocent people being persecuted, by showing its role reversal, a young girl frisking a police officer. Her braids and pink dress highlight her innocence.

To find this artwork in maps.me, type “Girl Frisking A Soldier Banksy” into the search bar in the map of the Palestinian Territories.

This one’s a little hidden as a local business man built a wall around it and charges a fee for admission. You need to decide if you think that’s right.

Cherubs Prying The Wall

One of his more recent pieces is this image of two cherubs trying to pry open a section of the wall. It’s also located near Banksy’s hotel.

Ahed Tamimi 

Some works have a more in-your-face political messages, like the painting of Ahed Tamimi.

She was in the news when she slapped an Israeli soldier in 2017 for shooting her cousin in the head with a rubber bullet after an escalation between locals and Israeli soldiers. I’m not saying that either side is right, but the story definitely highlights the tragic passion that plays out here.

As for the marks on the sides of her face, I think they represent fighter Mike Tyson’s facial tattoo, indicating she’s a fighter.

What happened to Ahed? She was released from prison in 2018, the day after this was painted. She says she now wants to become a lawyer and fight cases against Israel.

What happened to the artists? They were arrested for vandalism and had their visas revoked.

Most recently, Ahed published a memoir, They Called Me A Lioness, which gets 5 stars on Amazon.

Palestinians In Wonderland

The original art here is well-covered with graffiti, but it’s an image of Alice in Wonderland. I found the writing (to the left) to be very moving. I copied its heartbreaking content below.

“Destiny failed us through this hole called the West Bank: Just like Alice in the rabbit hole, we find ourselves trapped in prison and separation walls. Just like Alice found the door, we look out a checkpoint and give up our dignity and are humiliated to fit through. Just like Alice ate the candy to shrink her size to fit through the door, we have to get an entry permit to visit our land and families separated from us by this wall. Indeed we are Palestinians in Wonderland.”

Artist Unknown

The Danish House In Palestine, an NGO working to strengthen understanding between Danish and Palestinian cultures, used my photo above in their Instagram feed here.

Naji al-Ali’s Handala

Although these works are not on, or close, to the West Bank wall, I don’t think any article on the art in the West Bank is complete without a mention of Naji al-Ali.

A world-renowned Palestinian cartoonist, tragically assassinated in London in 1987, he developed the character of Handala, a 10-year old, barefoot boy, which became a powerful symbol of Palestinian defiance. Created with Handala’s back turned and hands behind his back, the artist said he would reveal Handala’s face when Palestinian refugees return to their homeland.

I found two pieces of art related to him while walking the neighborhoods in the area. The artwork above is Handala. I don’t know any details on the work, but he appears to be standing on a podium of some sort and talking to, or conducting, a large audience. Maybe he’s trying to pass his power to the common people idolizing him?

The artwork below morns his death, with the title RIP Naji al-Ali.

How To Find the Artwork

As noted above, most of the more popular pieces are located between Checkpoint 300 and Banksy’s Walled Off Hotel, which is only a 15-20 minute walk.

If you arrive via bus, simply walk towards Bethlehem after exiting the checkpoint. You can’t miss it (even if the taxi drivers insist you can’t get there without their help).

Download the maps.me app in advance, when you have wifi. Then you can search and navigate wifi free per the directions above.

It’s best to use the search names I’ve noted, as they’re not listed by the ’official’ names of the artwork.

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Where To Stay In Palestine

Banksy’s Walled Off Hotel is a great place to stay if you want to fully experience the artwork here. It’s celebration of art, including some of Banksy’s art. There’s a museum that covers the separation wall and a gallery for Palestinian artists.

This hotel is located right beside some of the most painted sections of the separation wall, just a10-minute walk or short taxi ride from Checkpoint 300. There are dorms, at budget price, and private rooms at a moderate price. 

Dar Al Mauge Boutique Hotel is a new hotel that has very high reviews. It offers beautiful rooms, a swimming pool, a rooftop “restobar” with views of Bethlehem, and has a paid airport shuttle service, making it very easy to get here.

When I was here, I stayed at Bunksurfing Hostel. It’s very affordable, and the owner was very nice, open to talking about anything and sharing his knowledge. It is not the cleanest place in the world, but I felt safe and was happy here.

How To Get To Palestine

Although many people visit via a tour, you can also visit solo, which is what I did. I felt safe during my visit, but it’s always best to research the most up-to-date situation. Do this before you arrive and throughout your trip. You can even talk to your countries embassy for the most up to date information. As noted above, with the current tensions it is not a good time to travel to Israel or the West Bank.

If you’re an American, you can sign up for STEP, which stands for Smart Traveler Enrollment Program. When you sign up for this, alerts will be sent to your email address if necessary.

Whichever method of transportation you chose, remember to bring your passport. It may not be checked going into Palestine, but you will need it to get back into Jerusalem.

They do not stamp your passport at the border of Palestine.

Bus

Bus is the least expensive and most adventurous option. I took bus 234 from the Arab bus station near Jerusalem’s Damascus Gate to Checkpoint 300 (the main checkpoint). The bus runs every 5-10 minutes and takes about 30-minutes. It costs 6 Shekels (about $2) which must be paid in cash.

Bus 231 is another option, dropping you at Bab El-Zakak/Beit Jala Bus Road in the center of Bethlehem or see arts research proposal example. This route takes longer, but you don’t need to walk through the checkpoint. A soldier may, or may not, board the bus and ask to see your passport. This bus is 7.5 Shekels (also cash only).

I was a little uncomfortable at first as I was the only non-Palestinian on the bus, but I reminded myself that my point of traveling here was to meet the people…and everyone was very friendly.

Private Transfer

If you prefer, you can arrange a private transfer, like this one from touristisrael.com. It offers a private shuttle from Jerusalem City to Bethlehem City for $99 each way.

Taxi

Any taxi in Jerusalem can take you to Checkpoint 300 in Bethlehem. If you hire an Arab taxi with a yellow license plate, they can take you to and from Bethlehem. Arab taxi drivers are more readily available near Damascus Gate. Note that Israeli’s, including Israeli taxi drivers, are not allowed inside. They must drop you off near the entrance of the checkpoint.

Rental Cars

Israeli Rental cars are not allowed to enter Palestine. If you get an Arab rental car in East Jerusalem, around the Damascus Gate, you should be able to drive it in area A (Bethlehem), but ask first.

Tour

A tour is a great option for visiting Bethlehem as you also get an overview of the political landscape. If your main goal, however, is to see the art on the West Bank wall, I suggest traveling independently. It’s safe and easy to do, and you’ll learn so much more talking to the locals yourself. Of course, read up on the history on your own first if not taking a tour.

If your tour is with an Arab Israeli, you can stay on the bus and should not need to go through any checks for entry. On the flip side, if your tour is with a Jewish Israeli, you will need to go through the checkpoint.

Entering Palestine

If you arrive via bus 234, you walk through the checkpoint to cross the separation wall and get into Bethlehem. This mainly means going through the turnstile, but if there is a line, it could take time. I went through very quickly. My only difficulty was getting my luggage through the very narrow turnstile. I ended up having to kick it through. I actually recommend entering this way as part of the overall experience to see how it would feel to have to enter and leave your homeland through this tiny turnstile.

Before you head out of the checkpoint, take a deep breath, as the taxi guys on the Palestinian side don’t see many tourists and are the most aggressive taxi drivers I’ve ever met. It’s best not to even engage with them if possible. I bypassed them while one man yelled that I couldn’t walk to the wall from there. I had my GPS up and decided to walk on, simply because I hate aggressive taxi drivers, and learned he was wrong. It was a 25-minute walk to my hostel, but I made it without the fleecing they were offering. The flip side is that if you do hire them, you’re helping their economy. I draw the line at mafia-esque taxi drivers.

Once I got past the uncertainty of the checkpoint and the aggressive taxi drivers, everything else was peaceful and easy. Just eye-opening and disheartening.

Final Thoughts on Palestine

I found my experience in Palestine to be very moving. In fact, it was downright heartbreaking. Yes, there have been horrible transgressions on both sides and I understand the original intention behind the wall, but my personal opinion is that living in this kind of repressed environment, which some call the “world’s largest open-air prison”, does not lead to anyhirng positive.

I’m not sure what the right solution is, but sincerely hope a better one is found. I fear that if things continue along this same path, things will only get worse.

This is one of those places you really have to experience firsthand to understand.

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new lands but in seeing with new eyes.”

Marcel Proust

Want To Learn More About Israel?

Israel is really an amazing country. One that I think everyone should visit. It’s small, but mighty, packed with a lot of amazing history.

Jerusalem, a mere 4 miles (6.4 km) from checkpoint 300 entry to the West Bank area, is Israel’s most visited location, with the area within its 16th century walls packed with the world’s top Holy Sites. The amount of history here is staggering. See Top Things To Do In Jerusalem for details.

Ancient Jaffa, or Tel Aviv-Yafo, one of the world’s oldest port cities is also full of vibrant history. The cobblestoned alleyways of the Old City, full of galleries, hip cafes, and bars, is a fun place to spend a few days. And it’s location on Mediterranean beaches add to its allure.

Too learn more about Israel, and some of its most impressive facts, see 5 Impressive Facts on Israel.

For an overview of all the top spots in Israel, how to get around, logistics, money matters, and more, see my Ultimate Israel Travel Guide.

Safe Travels!

To learn more about me and my philosophy on travel, see my about me page.