Visiting Fairy Tale Canyon (Skazka), Kyrgyzstan

Visiting Fairy Tale Canyon, also known as Skazka Canyon, is one of my favorite places in Kyrgyzstan. I highly recommended it. Especially late on a sunny afternoon when the fantastical rock formations here take on a red glow from the setting sun.

It can be a little challenging to get to if you don’t know how. To help, I’ve created this guide to help you get here and enjoy this fun little canyon by Issyk Kul lake.

Visiting Fairy Tale, or Skazka, Canyon

This canyon, also called ‘Skazka’ Canyon (Каньон “Сказка”), means ‘Fairy Tale Canyon’ in Russian. It gets its name from the fantasy-like shapes carved into the red sandstone from centuries of wind and water. You can see dragons, snakes, castles, and whatever else your mind’s eye can see.

To give you a better idea of scale, note the tiny people in the photo above.

It’s located on the southern side of Issyk-Kul Lake, between Kaji-Say and Tosor. Mid-way between the east and west side of the lake.

The Legend Of Fairy Tale (Skazka) Canyon

There is a local legend about this canyon that once, long ago, so long ago there wasn’t even a lake here yet, a dragon fell in love with a beautiful girl in a rich city in this valley. His love was unrequited, so he vowed that the wells in the city would rise and flood the canyon, every full moon, until she changed her mind.

After this promise, the dragon fell into a deep sleep. Every full moon, the people in the city covered all the wells with golden lids to protect them from flooding. One month, however, the woman herself forgot to cover a well. Sadly, the city flooded and turned into Issyk-Kul lake.

When the dragon woke from his long sleep, he was so sad, he froze and turned into stone, in what is now Skazka canyon. He also turned other people and animals into stone, which you can see here today.

What is interesting about this fable, is that archeologists have discovered artifacts from ancient civilizations under Issyk Kul lake, so there actually was once an ancient city here.

Fairy Tale (Skazka) Canyon Formations

Many of the formations have names, but unless you visit as part of an official tour, you just have to use your imagination as there are no signs to explain them.

The very first formation you will see is a stunner. It looks a little like the Great Wall of China. But it could also be the dragon in the legend above.

If you look behind you from this point, you’ll be able to see Issyk-Kul lake and the surrounding mountains (below). It’s pretty cool to see a snow-capped, mountain-rimmed, alpine lake from a desert-like canyon, in the midst of the stunning Tian Shan mountain range (Issyk Kul’s surface is at 5,272’ (1,606 m).

Note: The red-brown water you see above is from a recent rain. Most of Fairy Take Canyon area is arid and dry.

From here, you can wander wherever your heart leads you, as there is no formal path or any signs. It’s actually kind of cool that you can just roam and discover formations on your own. It’s not overly commercialized yet, which is part of its charm.

The formation below looks like a gorilla raising his fist to me, although the ’fist’ is really from the formation behind him.

The same rocks from a different angle, look a little like a snake, or dragon, and the face of a man screaming.

The day I was here, there was also a girl in a lovely pink dress posing for photos, which added to the whole fairytale feel (below).

Mini Painted Desert In Fairy Tale Canyon

There’s also a miniature painted desert within this canyon, reminiscent of the Painted Desert near the Grand Canyon in Arizona, with stripes of color running around the formations.

It’s all part of the same complex, but this section doesn’t get much mention.

Getting To Fairy Tale Canyon

Visiting Fairy Tale Canyon can be challenging as many locals don’t even seem to know about it. In fact I’ve heard it’s only been noted on maps for the past several years. 

The lady working at my hostel told me it was a 1 mile walk from Kaji-Say (it was 11 or 12). You also can’t find it by googling it, although I’ve added the link to its location here. And if you use maps.me (which I recommend here below) it’s oddly noted in 2 different locations (use the one between Kaji-Say and Tosor). Add into this the fact that the locals don’t speak much English, and transportation is not super easy, getting here can be as much of the adventure as the location itself.

Of course, if you have access to a vehicle, you can just drive here. If not, here are the best options:

Take A Marshrutka From Bishkek To Kaji-Say

A marshrutka is an old Soviet mini bus and the best organized transportation to sites outside of Bishkek. From Bishkek, take the Kaji-Say marshrutka from the West Side Bus Station. This is a 4 hour ride, so it makes for a long day if going down and back. Also remember that where they drop you is still 11 miles (17 km) from the canyon, so there is still a way to go.

It’s helpful to translate ‘Kaji-Say’ to Russian to help identify the correct marshrutka. See the photo of the sign on the marshrutka I took below. Kaji-Say is in blue at the bottom (Кажы-Сай).

Don’t worry too much if you don’t have the right translation as there will likely be someone at the bus station that speaks English. I just think it’s better to appear like you know what you’re doing, so you’re less likely to be taken advantage of. My cost was 300 SOM, which is about $4 (USD).

Tip: look for a paper with prices posted for various destinations at the bus station ticket window as sometimes drivers request more from tourists. Or watch carefully what locals pay.

My Experience From Bishkek to Kaji-Say

When I got off the marshrutka from Bishkek in Kaji-Say, I learned I still had 11 miles to go. Luckily, I also immediately ran into another tourist looking for Fairy Tale Canyon. He had taken a marshrutka from Karakol and dropped drop his luggage at a room in Kaji-Say.

We decided to hitchhike together, as the walk was too long. It only took a few cars before a couple picked us up. They drove us the to the canyon (about 20-minutes) and refused any cash, which was very nice (sometimes locals unofficially act as taxi drivers and accept money). Sharing a ride made my first time hitchhiking in Kyrgyzstan feel like a positive experience (I was admittedly a little nervous). I ended up doing this again, solo, later.

Take A Marshrutka From Bishkek To Karakol

Take a marshrutka from Bishkek to Karakol and request to be dropped at Fairy Tale Canyon.

Be prepared by translating your request in Russian in advance and figure it all out before you get in and pay so there are no misunderstandings.

This would have been a better option for me, but at the time I didn’t it.

Take A Marshrutka From Karakol To Kaji-Say

If coming from Karakol, a popular tourist area on the far east side of Issyk-Kul lake about 64 miles (103 km) from the canyon, take a marshrutka to Kaji-Say and ask to be dropped at Fairy Tale Canyon. 

As above, be prepared to translate and discuss before you depart so there is no misunderstanding.

Fairy Tale Canyon Entrance

There’s a small sign on the main road that says Fairy Tale Canyon. Don’t blink or you’ll miss it. I suggest downloading the map of Kyrgyzstan on maps.me in advance (when you have wifi). This way you can track where you’re going offline and know when to get off the marshrutka. Maps.me is also convenient as it shows where the ticket office is, the canyon itself, and several view points.

The ticket entrance is a hundred or so meters from the road. Here, someone will collect 50 SOM (about $.75) per person. The canyon, however, is still another 1.25 miles (2 km) from the entrance, so be patient. The walk is worth it.

You can drive a 4 x 4 type vehicle to the canyon from the entrance, but the roads are too rough for a regular car. You can hitchhike from the entrance, but cars here are rare.

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Getting Back Home

Getting back to Bishkek, or Karakol, should be the same process in reverse. It’s not always easy, however, to flag down a marshrutka. They don’t have set schedules, departing only when seats are full.

My plan was to catch the marshrutka back to Bizhkek. I was told that the last marhsrutka from Kaji-Say to Bishkek was at 6 PM. However, with limited English, I wasn’t really sure.

I was at the right spot before 6:00 PM and at 6:05 PM I got a little nervous as I still didn’t see one (probably too soon). I didn’t actually intend to start hitchhiking right away, but for some reason my arm went up as a white van drove by (possibly emboldened by my prior hitched ride). It turned out to be the best thing as he was driving all 4-5 hours to Bishkek.

Admittedly, I felt nervous getting into a van with a stranger, that didn’t speak English. However, it wasn’t long before the van was full as he picked up others along the way. In total, we had 7 adults, with 2 babies, and a TV. Oh, and we also stopped along the way home and had 2 tires changed, while we all waited in the car. Strange, but true. I was the only tourist and the only one that probably thought this was unusual.

I had originally negotiated the same price as my marshrutka from Bishkek (300 SOM), but the drive was so much more pleasant than the mini bus, and the driver was so nice, I ended up leaving him his original request of 500 SOM (about $6 USD). For my ride and safety, it was totally worth it.

Other Options For Visiting Fairy Tale Canyon

If you have time, stay at Issyk-Kul Lake several days. There are various other sites to see in addition to visiting Fairy Tale Canyon, like Konorchek Canyon, another stunning red rock canyon reminiscent of the Grand Canyon, and the Seven Bulls in Jeti-Ögüz, an enchanting red rock formation. If it’s summer, you may also want to swim and stay near the beach. Or maybe take the opportunity to stay in a traditional yurt by the lake.

Or, choose to take a tour of all the great stuff around Issyk Kul Lake. I recommend The ultimate 5 day voyage around Issyk Kul lake. This tour, which picks you up from your hotel includes Burana Tower, Konorchek Canyon, Grigoriev Gorge, horseback riding in Chen-Kevin National Park, Karakol, Jeti Oguz, Fairy Tale Canyon, a cruise (and possibly a swim) on Issyk-Kul Lake, a stay in a traditional yurt on the coast of the lake, and more. It really hits all the top spots and makes it easy!

If that’s too much, opt for the 3-Day Private Tour Around Issyk Kul Lake. It still hits many of the top spots around the lake as well as Fairy Tale Canyon. There’s also a 2 Days Best of Kyrgyz Canyons, which takes you to Fairy Tale Canyon, Konorchek Canyon, Ak-Sai Canyon, and Burana Tower.

Where To Stat Near Fairy Tale Canyon

If you want to stay a night or two near Issyk Kul Lake while visiting Fairy Tale Canyon, staying in a traditional yurt on the beach is a very popular thing to do.

Tong

• Bel Tam Yurt Camp is located in the city of Tong, which is about 10 miles (16 km) west of Fairy Tale Canyon. These budget friendly yurts are managed by locals and sit on the beach of Issyk Kul Lake. These were some of the first yurt camps set up for tourists here, so there are many, many reviews to look at before deciding.

Tosor

• Glamping Skazka offers luxury geodome-like tents (not yurts) at an affordable price. They’re located on the coast of Issyk Kul Lake, but in Tosor, very close to the entrance of Fairy Tale Canyon. The tent includes an internal, private bathroom with shower as well as a lake view, and mountain view.
• Yurt Camp Skazka is a budget yurt camp in Tosor, not too far from Fairy Tale Canyon, about a 30-minute walk fro: the entrance, making it somewhat convenient. This yurt camp looks good, with views of the lake and mountains here, but the few reviews it has are only ‘good’. Make sure to read the reviews before booking so you know what to expect.

Where To Stay In Bishkek

If you’re making your base in Bishkek, I’ve listed several places that are centrally located and highly rated. The place where I stayed is no longer in business.

Shoestring

• Izzzi Hostel  gets stellar reviews and is centrally located. There are lockers in the dorms and privacy panels on the beds.

Budget

• AURA on Kievskaya, 168 is a simple, but highly rated apartment that’s centrally located about a 20-minute walk west of Ala Too Square. There’s a full sized bed and kitchen.
• Bishkek Promenade is a centrally located apartment with 1 bedroom (full sized bed) and a kitchen that gets great reviews. It’s a 10-minute walk west of Ala Too Square.
• Logvinenko Apartment is a 1 bedroom apartment has a terrace with city views and a kitchen. It gets great reviews and is located about a 10-minute walk north of Ala Too Square.

• Brand New One Bedroom Apartment With Amazing View is a cozy bedroom apartment with a kitchen and balcony with amazing view. This one does not have many reviews yet, but the few it does have are very positive. It’s located about 10 to 15-minute walk east of Ala Too Square.

Affordable

• If you want something more grand, Orion Hotel is a 5-star hotel located about  a 15 to 20-minute walk south of Ala Too Square. 

Want To See More Of Kyrgyzstan?

With its stunning snow-capped mountains, brilliant alpine lakes, verdant forests, and lush, grassy steppes, Kyrgyzstan is full of jaw-dropping beauty and interesting things to do.

If you’re staying in Bishkek, read about The Top 22 Things To Do in Bishkek, which also includes an overview of other amazing day trips, like Burana Tower, to see the remains of the capital of the Karakhanid Empire, which once accepted thousands of caravans on the Silk Road.

And even if you’re not into trekking, a visit to Ala Arch National Park is a must do. The mountains at this stunning park make the perfect place for a picnic, and have a variety of trails from beginner to advanced.

Kazakhstan, just north of Kyrgyzstan, shares the same mountain range as Kyrgyzstan and offers similar adventures. See my Kazakhstan Travel Guide, as well as posts on visiting Kolsay and Kaindy Lakes, 18 Amazing Things To Do In Amazing Almaty, and Big Almaty Lake. All gems on the other northern side of the Tian Shan mountains.

Safe Travels!

Julie

If you’ve visited, or are visiting Fairy Tale Canyon soon, I would love to hear your thoughts. Please comment below.

To learn more about me and my philosophy on travel, read my About Me page.