Top Things To Do In Marrakesh
This post covers the highlights of visiting Marrakesh, the top things to see and do, how to get to there, and tips to help make your trip awesome.
The Essence of Marrakesh
Marrakesh has always held an exotic appeal for me and it didn’t disappoint. Most travelers either love it or hate it. And to be honest, for me, it’s a little of both.
Marrakesh’s Challenges
Frankly, Marrakesh can be overwhelming, loud, and in your face, an immediate assault to your senses. First there’s the medieval circus of Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, an odd assortment of snake charmers, henna artists, musicians, storytellers, and peddlers, all trying to seduce you at once, while dodgier elements look for pickpocket opportunities.
Then there’s the labyrinth of its souks, seemingly designed so you get lost, and doing just that. And the shrewd salesmen of its over 3,000 stalls, calling out to you as you pass, somehow knowing the split second something catches your eye, as well as how much you’re willing to pay for it.
And the young men in the narrow, windy streets that offer help, only with the goal of extracting change from you or diverting you to their family shop.
The dizzying array of sensory input can really frazzle your nerves. Yet, you can’t let it do that. You have to get past its chaos, before you can see its charms.
Marrakesh’s Charms
Once you see past the loudest hawkers in Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, you see more of its cultural side. The hypnotic musicians playing traditional Gnawa, which combines poetry, religion, and dance with music. And once you’ve joined the embrace of a circle, or halca, created by a master storyteller, or halaiqui, you realize the rare glimpse you’re being given of an ancient oral tradition that’s slowly fading away.
You can’t help but love the exotic hand-crafted goods in the souks. Made by skilled artisans, with knowledge passing from generation to generation. The perfect counterbalance to the mass production of our western goods. Lamps that evoke the Morocco of our dreams, sumptuous rugs, brilliantly colored tiles, and a zillion other things you didn’t know you needed.
And as you explore the medina’s centuries-old architecture, its exquisite detail beguiles you. So lavishly hand-carved and hand-painted, they set off a swarm of exotic stories in your head.
All this while the sound of the call to prayer reverberates through the air.
…this is the side of Marrakesh I can’t get enough of...
Top Things To Do In Marrakesh
You can’t begin to understand Marrakesh from a book or movie. It has to be experienced first-hand. And as with most of my travels, I think you can only really experience its true essence if you travel it independently, finding that comfortable edge between its charms and challenges on your own.
The Medina
The Medina is old Marrakesh, its heart. Founded in the 11th-12th centuries, by the Almoravid and Almohad Berber dynasties, it’s encircled by almost 12 miles (19 km) of dusty pink walls.
This is also where you’ll find most of the top things to see and do in Marrakesh.
Jemaa el-Fnaa Square
If the Medina is the city’s heart, Jemaa el-Fnaa square is its pulse. Known as the busiest square in Africa, it’s remained virtually unchanged for centuries, except, of course, for the public executions that may once have been held here.
This square may be overwhelming, but if you know where to look, and what to look out for, you understand why it’s on UNESCO’s list for cultural expression and exchanges.
Early Morning
Each day starts out fresh and remarkably quiet with juice stalls and fruit stands as the main attraction. Locals quietly pass through at the start of their work day.
Daytime
As the morning progresses, the spectacle starts as some of its shadier characters move in. These are the ones that feed on tourists, like the snake charmers and monkey handlers.
As enticing as these curiosities may seem at first, they’re best avoided as these animals are generally not treated well.
Even worse, the venomous snakes often have their fangs removed and mouths sewn shut, while the monkeys, often Barbary macaques, are an endangered species. Not good!
As soon as you show the slightest interest or bring out your camera, they’re all over you for payment, using these animals as bait.
The henna artists are also here. Be careful as these ladies can be quite aggressive, enticing you with exotic art on your hand or leg, then demanding outrageous sums. Their tools are also unlikely to be properly cleaned. Ask where to get proper henna art at your hotel instead.
Late Afternoon/Evening
Later in the day the musicians, storytellers, acrobats, and magicians come out, fascinating examples of Marrakesh’s rich cultural heritage. You become beholden to the their charm and charisma, plus it’s a great place to people watch as locals come for this too.
As the crowd intensifies, make sure anything of value is well hidden. The square is relatively safe, but pickpocketing is always a possibility for the unsuspecting.
At night the square crescendos into a full blown theater and open-air restaurant, with music playing, smoke rising from the hundreds of temporary ‘cookeries’, and thousands of people in the square. It’s energy is palpable and can’t be missed.
Each makeshift ‘cookerie’ is known by its number, where gregarious hosts make up rhymes to entice you into their stall, like, “eat at 57 and go to heaven”. Their neighbor then counters that with a negative, like, “eat at 57 and bad food you will be given” and a positive that rhymes with their own stall number. A lighthearted banter that will leave you smiling, even if you don’t eat there. If you do, make sure to pick a place where locals are eating. The best way to find the best food.
Don’t expect amazing food though, this is more about the experience.
Kouboutie Mosque
This mosque is both a symbol and landmark of Marrakesh, built by the Almohads after the conquest of the Almoravids in the 12th century. You can wander around the outside, however must be Muslim to enter.
How To Get To Kouboutie Mosque
Kouboutie Mosque is located in the southwest medina near Jemaa el-Fnaa. Follow Jemaa el-Fnaa Road from the Square.
Souks
The souks are a crazy maze of shops, generally set up in areas by product category, like the spice souk, leather souk, wood souk, etc.
Tips For Getting Around The Souks
Unless you have a specific goal in mind, it’s best to start by just wandering. Although many hostels/hotels will provide you a hand drawn map, they can be confusing. And there are signs in the souk (look up), although they’re only mildly helpful.
I find maps.me to be most helpful. Download the map of Marrakesh in advance and mark your hotel and/or starting point so you can find your way back out, offline via satellite.
Then you feel secure getting lost, using maps.me to find your way back. It’s not perfect in the narrow, windy alleys, but it will help. Also note that it can drain your battery, so make sure to set it on low battery mode, or bring a charger.
As you walk, locals will come up and offer to help you find places, but don’t accept. They usually do so solely for money, which they demand at the end. Admittedly, this happened to me once, but I had no cash with me at the time. He yelled and was not happy, but what else could I do? He finally walked away (still yelling), but I had nothing to give him.
If you really do get lost, it’s best to ask a shop owner, policemen, or a woman for directions. I felt silly asking policemen for directions, but they understand why you do this and are willing to help.
As you wander, also keep in mind that the best prices are found deeper in the souk, rather than the more frequently visited periphery.
Negotiating
Prices are not marked, they’re negotiated. Therefore, it’s best to be prepared. If you know what you want to buy in the souk, ask your hotel for an estimated cost in advance.
Start negotiating at 30-50% of your target price. Be firm, but keep it lighthearted. These are shrewd businessmen, but the personal exchange is an important part of the process for them. Also remember that a few dirham overpaid may be worth much more to them then its loss is to you.
Ben Youssef Madrasa
Ben Youssef Madrasa is an Islamic school originally built in the 14th century. Renovated in the 15th, it’s now a museum. At its peak it was North Africa’s largest Islamic school with 132 dorms, for non-Moroccans, and held up to 900 students.
This is one of the most beautiful buildings in the Medina. Its stately architecture, detailed carving, and tilework is stunning.
Students came here to study theology, law and other sciences. You can also visit the teeny, tiny dorms upstairs.
This Madrasa recently underwent another renovation and is now open.
How To Get To Ben Youssef Madrasa
Located in the northern end of the medina, it’s a 10 minute walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa. It’s near the Musee de Marrakech and La Maison de la Photgraphie on Rue Assoeul.
La Maison de la Photographie
Love photography? Want to see what Morocco looked like over a hundred years ago? La Maison de la Photographie is a charming museum with thousands of photographs from Morocco between 1870 and 1950.
Also make sure to check out the rooftop terrace, where you can have mint tea, snacks, a tagine, or special of the day, while viewing the city from above. This is a great peaceful getaway from the chaos.
How To Visit
Located in the northern part of the medina. It’s east of Ben Youssef Madrasa and Musee de Marrakech at Rue Ahl Fes, 46 Rue Bin Lafnadek.
Museum of Marrakesh (Musee de Marrakech)
Housed in the palace of Dar Mnebhi, who was the defense minister of Abdelaziz of Morocco, this museum showcases traditional and modern Moroccan art.
How To Get To The Museum of Marrakesh
It’s located on Place Ben Youssef, just south of Ben Youssef Madrasa.
El Bahia Palace
Another of the city’s most beautiful landmarks is El Bahia Palace, built in the 1800’s by a powerful Grand Vizier (head of government of sovereign states) and enhanced by his son, who also became a Vizier.
Its interior is a masterpiece of art and architecture with beautifully painted cedar wood ceilings, also known as zouak, delicately carved stucco, and zellij mosaic tile work throughout its 150 rooms, gardens, and courtyards.
I loved the doorways and intricate detail.
Since the Palace is still used by the royal family to house visiting dignitaries, sections are open to the public when it’s not in use.
How To Get To El Bahia Palace
Located about a 15 minute walk southeast of Jemaa el-Fnaa at Avenue Imam El Ghazali.
El Badii Palace
Built at the end of the 16th century by Sultan Ahmed al-Mansur, its name means ‘the incomparable’ as this Palace was reputed to be very beautiful.
It supposedly once had over 300 rooms decorated in gold, turquoise, and crystal. Unfortunately, all that remains are mostly just the ruins of its shell.
How To Get To El Badii Palace
Located south of Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, it’s southwest of El Bahia Palace on Kisbat Nhas.
Sadiaan Tombs
This royal necropolis contains the remains of Ahmed al-Mansur (builder of El Badii Palace), his close family members, and other important figures from the Saadi dynasty, which ruled Morocco from 1549 to 1659.
The Hall of the Twelve Columns contains the tomb of Ahmed al-Mansur along with his closest family members.
Rediscovered in 1917, these tombs were protected from looting as they were hidden from sight by a wall built by one of Ahmed’s successors.
How To Get To Sadiaan Tombs
Located at Rue de la Kasbah on the south side of Kasbah Mosque in the Kasbah district, southwest of El Badii Palace. Also close to Les Bains de Marrakech.
Hammams
Hammam literally means ‘bath’ in Arabic. Visiting a hammam is a weekly event for many locals, so it can be very busy, especially Thursdays and Fridays.
It usually incorporates a sauna, scrub down, which can be quite vigorous, and massage. Bring your bathing suit bottom as this is done ‘au naturale’ (some do provide a disposable panty).
There are hammams in every neighborhood and your Riad may even have one, so there are lots of choices. You can choose a public one, like Hammam Mouassine, one of the oldest, or Les Bains De Marrakech, which is freshly renovated, or you can choose a private one, the fanciest being Royal Mansour.
Tanneries
This one is controversial. Many tourists want to see the tanneries. I did too, until I learned more about it after visiting the tanneries in Fez.
Unfortunately, the materials the workers sludge through to tan the hides can be toxic, endangering their lives. In addition, without proper disposal, these materials usually end up seeping into water sources, creating environmental damage.
On top of this, the salesmen in the ‘shop’ are notoriously pushy, pressuring you to buy. And since it’s slightly out of the way, due to the stench, locals actively look for tourists trying to find the tanneries, demanding money for leading them there.
All around, this is basically a bad idea. In fact, knowing all this, I would have a hard time buying any Moroccan leather.
If you must go, it’s located in the Bab Debbagh quarter in the northeastern end of the medina. Best reached by taxi, ask for Bab Debbaugh or Place Moukef, then look for signs to the Bab Debbaugh Tanneries.
Things To See Outside The Medina
Jardin Majorelle (Yves Saint Laurent)
Yves Saint Lauren bought Jardin Majorelle and renovated it to this stunning, colorful oasis with his partner. After his death it became a memorial in his honor.
It’s visually stunning and a great getaway from the chaos of the medina. The cafe here is also very pleasant, serving breakfast, beverages, and light lunches. Some say it’s pricey, but I found the peace and quiet worth it.
Yves also built a Berber museum here. It contains historical information and over 600 objects of indigenous Berber jewelry and fashions, many of which inspired his work.
How To Get To Jardin Majorelle
Jardin Majorelle is a 10 minute taxi ride or 30 minute walk northwest of Jemaa el-Fnaa Sauare on Rue Yves Saint Laurent.
Yves Saint Laurent Museum
In 2017, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum opened. It showcases some of his most iconic work, much of which was inspired here.
How To Get To Yves Saint Laurent Museum
Located on Rue Yves Saint Laurent, it’s just a couple minute walk from Jardin Majorelle.
Day Trips From Marrakesh
Ait Benhaddou
Built on an old caravan route on the cusp of the High Atlas Mountains between Africa and Northern Marrakesh, the fortified walls encircling Ait Benhaddou were built in the 11th century.
Picture perfect, it’s been in many movies. Just a few include, Lawrence of Arabia, the Jewel of the Nile, Indiana Jones, the Gladiator, Cleopatra and the TV series Game of Thrones.
How To Get To Ait Benhaddou
This is best visited by tour, as it’s about 3.5 hours southeast of Marrakesh. Tours usually also include trips to Ouarzazate (below). It’s also often part of trips to the Sahara desert.
Ouarzazate
Farther away, and closer to the Sahara, is Ouarzazate. The main site here is the former Glaoui Palace, or Toaurirt Kasbah.
Yet another set for many movies and TV shows, you can walk inside the ruins of the palace. There are also locals living in some areas. If you’re with a small group, they may give you a personal tour (for a small fee of course).
How To Get To Ouarzazate
Located 4 hours southeast of Marrakesh, it’s best visited by tour.
Sahara Desert
Seeing the beautiful sand dunes of the Sahara from Marrakesh is actually a several day trip. There are 2 popular areas to visit.
Zagora: This is a little closer to Marrakesh, but not as scenic, with less dunes. It’s located 223 miles (360 km), or about 7 hours southeast of Marrakesh.
Merzouga: Here you will see the more iconic orange sand dunes you expect, but it’s farther, at 341 miles (550 km), about 10 hours away.
Both are best done as tours, usually including camel rides to your camp, a traditional Berber dinner and music, and an early morning to watch the sunrise.
As Ait Benhaddou and Ouarzazate are along the way, they’re also usually included as stops. Zagora is usually a 2 – 3 day tour, while Merzouga is usually 4 – 5.
Want More of Morocco?
Morroco is a fascinating place and there’s so much more to explore, with each city offering a different facet to its colorful kaleidoscope.
Fez offers a completely unique cultural experience as walking into its ancient walls is like walking back into the Middle Ages. It’s also full of ancient treasures with the world’s oldest university, several stunning madrasas, and of course it’s souks (which are less stressful).
Casablanca is also worth a quick stop, with its stunning Hassan II Mosque, the charming mix of French and Moroccan architecture in its New Medina, and glimpse into more modern Moroccan life in its Old Medina.
If you’re looking for something more relaxing, the beaches in Essaouira are a popular spot. Or, if you’re into surfing, the uber-charming town of Taghazout is world-renowned for its waves.
To learn more about these locations, as well as information on how to get around, logistics, scams, safety, and more, see my Travel Guide to Morocco.
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5 Comments
Linda Howell
Hi Julie
You do a great narrative. I haven’t read all of them but will try to. Did you like Morocco? I am looking at doing another Intrepid trip there. I haven’t got the energy to to do it on my own like yourself but at nearly 68 I guess that’s OK.
Merry Christmas
Linda
Julie
Belated Merry Christmas and HNY!! Yes, I liked Morocco…very unique! And the people are nice….
Julie
….and I hope to still travel as much as you when I am 68..!!!
Kerry Dare
Hi Julie,
I saw your post card to HD today. Thank you for remembering us. I look forward to your adventures. You do such a wonderful narrative of your adventures. I enjoy it all. At this time you are in Africa.
Thanks
Kerry
Julie
Hi Kerry,
Thanks for the note! I think of you guys also….hope all is well. ?